OPEN FIRE defines chef Tomos Parry’s cooking at Brat in East London. “There’s something about its immediacy and simplicity,” Mr. Parry said. “You have to constantly adapt.” He also likes the flavor smoke imparts and the textural variations flames produce.

Even cooked in a conventional oven, his first Slow Food Fast recipe—this seared duck breast served with roasted figs, radicchio and grapes—delivers some of the deeply caramelized, meaty flavors and striking contrasts the chef has become known for. By all means, if you have...

The Chef: Tomos Parry

Illustration: Michael Hoeweler

His Restaurants: Brat and Brat at Climpson’s Arch, in East London

What He’s Known For: Simple cooking over live fire. Meticulous sourcing. An unpretentious welcome and an ambitious vision.

OPEN FIRE defines chef Tomos Parry’s cooking at Brat in East London. “There’s something about its immediacy and simplicity,” Mr. Parry said. “You have to constantly adapt.” He also likes the flavor smoke imparts and the textural variations flames produce.

Even cooked in a conventional oven, his first Slow Food Fast recipe—this seared duck breast served with roasted figs, radicchio and grapes—delivers some of the deeply caramelized, meaty flavors and striking contrasts the chef has become known for. By all means, if you have a wood-burning grill, go ahead and make this dish over a fire as it’s currently done at Brat. Either way, the result will be a highly satisfying seasonal meal.

Mr. Parry recommends cooking the duck to medium. “If it’s under it can get a bit flabby; if it’s over it gets dry,” he said. The radicchio provides a sharp counterpoint, and the roasted fruit plays well with the rich meat. “Since grapes are now being harvested, they’re perfectly ripe,” the chef noted. “I rather like that some will have more bite than others.” Cooking and serving the grapes on the stem makes for a beautiful presentation. “It’s simple cooking but the execution is special,” Mr. Parry said. “That’s what I’m striving for.”

—Kitty Greenwald is a chef, food writer and the co-author of ‘Slow Fires’ (Clarkson Potter)

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